English & Irish Dress

I decided for the next film I work on I'll be doing the Irish Confederate War, or the 11 year war. I decided I'd do some research on Irish clothing in the 17th century and Irish Catholicism so I can get an idea of what the costuming will be as well as the religious side of the film. Mostly because costuming ended up being out of my budget for the last film so I'd rather look ahead so I can get a nice sum of money for the costuming.

17th Century Irish Clothing

  • Materials- Woolen and linen clothes tended to be the dress of the everyman, while imported silk and satin tended to be the dress of the upper class. Animal furs were used for capes and jackets. Tartans made in Ireland were often sold to the Scottish.
  • Colors- The Irish tended to love bright colors. The Ulster Army wore various colored cloaks, some red, some light blue, some deep blue, some green, white, and yellow cloaks. Several articles of clothing tended to be multicolored, often either striped, spotted, or checkered in a variety of colors. Exact regulations were made by King Tigernmas and his successor. Slaves were to dress monocolored, a peasant or farmer wears two, up to a King, Queen, or filí (highest class in Ireland), who were privileged to wear 6 colors.
  • Upper Garment Classification- They only mention the classification of male garments as:
    • A large cloak, general without sleeves, that covers the person from the shoulders down
    • A short, tight fitting coat or jacket with sleeves, but no collar
    • A cloak for shoulders commonly (but not always) carrying a hood
    • A petticoat, same present in the Highland kilt.
    • Sometimes only 1 classification was used, most of the time a combination of 2 or 3, and very rarely a combination of all 4
  • The last bit of the article is going further into the classifications, naming them
    • Loose Upper Garment
    • Tight-fitting Upper Garment
    • Cape and Hood
    • The Kilt

17th Century English Clothing

  • Lady's Dress
    • Soft satin dress
    • Short waist
    • Full flowing skirt
    • Wide plumed hat with a long "lovelock"
    • Flemish lace collar covering neck
    • For formal occasions neck would be bare with a necklace
  • Mans Day Clothes
    • Short waisted doublet, slits on chest and and sleeve
    • Knee length breeches
    • Lace trimmed ruff covers neck
    • Soft leather boots and gloves
      • OR
    • Short unstiffened jacket
    • Wide breeches hanging loose to the knee
    • Dark colors were often worn by parliamentarians (red for loyalists, black for parliamentarians)
    • Bows on square toed shoes
    • Narrow brimmed conical hat
  • Military Clothing
    • Red Coats

Bibliography

“CHAPTER XVIII... Continued.” Library Ireland: Irish History, Genealogy and Culture, www.libraryireland.com/SocialHistoryAncientIreland/III-XVIII-2.php.
“Tudor and Stewart Fashion and Clothing.” Historic UK, www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/Tudor-Stuart-Fashion/.

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